Tuesday 3 July 2012

Retro Cheese



Lets eat Fondue
The Cabine took on another flavour today and made the transition from 'Astronomy' to 'Gastronomy'. Last night, for supper we had a particularly spicy vegetarian chilli.  So at breakfast this morning, Toot and I decided that tonight something a little less 'piquante' might be advisable. "Lets have Cheese Fondue"!  Well that got me thinking "Who introduced us to this Swiss- French savoury treat and when". 


Toot and I both think that this event probably occurred in the late nineteen-sixties or early seventies when 'Fondue' along with 'Coq au Vin' and the ubiquitous starter - 'Prawn Cocktail', were the student/dinner party icons of social mobility.  Possibly, various flat mates' girlfriends might have been involved,  Glynis, Liz or Mary or in Toot's case an officer in one of Her Majesty's Armed Forces.? 


Toot remembers that when we married in 1974, we were given a 'fondue set' as a wedding present. Sadly, it is no longer with us and has been replaced by a more modern equivalent.  Our new pot has a matt black interior and an external enamel coat in Ferrari-red livery! The pot is fired by a methylated spirit burner and our stainless steel 'fondue-forks' shine brightly in the candlelight of our dining room.  "Can't you just smell the aroma of, nutmegs,wine, brandy and hot cheese bubbling in the pot"? 


Apparently, cheese fondue has been around for a long time, the first acknowledged appearance as a recipe  was in a book published in Zurich, in 1699, under the name - "Käss mit Wein zu kochen".  Toot and I can well understand the longevity of this dish , as we rate it as one of our 'staple treats'.  We have eaten fine examples of this at restaurants in France, Switzerland and on Fuerteventura but we really enjoy making this at home.


All our children (accept Alice) and their partners enjoy the conviviality of a shared meal around the 'fondue pot'. William and Rachel have always liked it, Chrissy and Nina came to it later in life and Alice and Andy still remain to be turned to the dark-side of the 'Cheese'.  William and Rachel introduced us to 'Raclette' but that's another story!


So tonight is 'Fondue Night' and Toot is baking the bread for cubing and dipping.  I will make the fondue.


Garlic rubbed into the pot


First you anoint the pot.  This involves peeling and splitting two pieces of garlic and rubbing the internal surface of the cooking pot.  You do not need a dedicated fondue pot any heavy weight cast iron pan will do. Leave the garlic pieces in the pot.


Now Toot and I like porcini mushrooms in our fondue but fresh porcini are hard to come by in the UK.  We use dried porcini which we rehydrate with a little water in the micro-wave.
Gruyere, Emmental and Cheddar

















Second cube your cheese, equal amounts of Gruyere and Emmental and a little mature cheddar is a good mix.  In Spain, they often use Manchego, which I must say is very nice. Put  the 'finely' cubed cheese in your
pot and 'just' cover with white wine.  Toot and I prefer to use a medium sweet wine 
like a German Hock.  Grate fresh nutmeg over the cheese and wine. Then add a tablespoon measure of brandy, a teaspoon of sugar, a twist or three of ground black pepper and a good pinch of salt.


Chop, chop, chop
Mix the cornflour (cornstarch) with some of the Hock from the bottle until a cream like paste is created. Stir the paste into the hot wine and cheese mixture to thicken the fondue.


When done to the consistency you like, stir in the 'Porcini' and any flavoured water that remains from the rehydration process.

Take off the heat and move to your dining table.  Light the fondue pot burner and reduce the flame such that the fondue is kept warm but not scorched.  If you have no burner a candle night-light will do as long as you can find some way of supporting the pot over it.



Ingredients other than cheese and garlic


Take your fork, dip in and enjoy!   If you like you can dip in pieces of vegetable, celery is nice!  Don't be afraid to experiment with fondue.  Drink lots of wine with this meal, it adds to the experience!

Rehydrate the Porcini
WARNING:  Take care not to 'over cheese', as later in the evening or in the early hours of the morning,  this reckless practice can lead to a difficult and almost unbearably unpleasant experience.

Wine and brandy, salt, pepper and sugar
 into the pot and heat and on the hob
until the cheese melts into the wine and brandy

Grating the nutmeg

Thickening paste
The Fondue ready to go














Toot's bread







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